One at the origin and the next one at the 1.272 Fibonacci extension level to maximize profits. You can also split it into two take profit levels. Take profit level is mirrored by measuring the height of the first swing wave in a rising or falling wedge pattern. Keep in mind, breakout candlestick must have at least 70% body (means small wick and big body). And then you will decide yourself which one option will be good. Here you will use your common sense and calculate risk reward ratio for each case. There are two options here, either to trigger a trade just after breakout of the trend line or to wait for retracement to the Fibonacci 50 level. Stop loss can also be placed above the key level which will be a more safe option but as we also have to look for a good risk reward that’s why first one is good. A rising wedge in an uptrend is considered a reversal pattern that occurs when the price is making higher highs and higher lows. Make sure to add spread while adjusting the stop loss level. Identifying the rising wedge pattern in an uptrend. Stop loss will be above the last high made by the price before breakout of trend line in case of rising wedge chart pattern. Now let’s talk about the stop loss, take profit and entry of trade setup. Typically, active traders and investors combine the ascending wedge with other forms of analysis to confirm. It is a bearish indicator and is frequently used to short the market and capitalise on topside reversals or downtrend extensions. If Price break the trend line without touching resistance or supply level, then it can be a false breakout to trap retail traders. The ascending wedge is a sought-after chart pattern for legions of forex, futures and equities traders. Like if there is forming a rising wedge pattern and there is also a strong resistance or supply level above then if Price break trend line after touching the resistance and supply level then it is a good pattern.
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It's self-tuning and the car runs much better in the cold weather. My brother put a Holley Sniper kit on his '68 Firebird and he loves it. Personally I like Holley carbs, but they're are several good options out there. You'll likely want new heads and valve train to provide better flow. You could even get a 3.875" crank and build a 390 (std bore) or a 395 4.030" bore). At that point, if you're looking for 400hp/400tq you may as well go with a longer stroke rotating assembly. If the block gets an OK from a reputable shop, you've got a clean slate. Irregular vibrations at high rpms can cause all sorts of problems. Take the block to get checked for cracks in the webbing. I wouldn't consider anything short of a full tear down. Its virtually impossible to know the extent of the damage without opening it up. One wheel burn-outs just arent cutting it! The only other modification I really want for this "rebuild/repair/replacement etc" Is switching to Posi-trac. I appreciate any recommendations on what I can do to add some fun with out a second mortgage The truck has been in my family since around 94 and has a lot of sentimental value. I dont have known any issues with the TH350. I believe the rear end gear ratio on this truck is a 3.08(3.07?) as my tach is just about 3k if im doing 85mph with 265/75/15. Or should I buy a crate of some sort and dump this 350? Would I be better off Building a 383 stroker out of this lightly used 350 core,reman 350SB? As the Crank sounds like its in need of a replacement anyhow. Is it safe to assume the Crankshaft is toast at this point and requires engine removal from the truck, crank replacement, and Main bearings done while in there? How much would this cost for a minimal fix with new parts? Is this a smart solution? The motor has never been overheated to my knowledge, but was installed by a rather inept mechanic prior to my ownership. They claim that it is cracked, and others have told me that it has broken in a way that is allowing the motor to run but is on very borrowed time. when they popped it off, they noticed (and I later verified) a large amount of play on the snout? of the crankshaft. I dropped the truck off at my local repair shop for further investigation, and possible harmonic balancer replacement. it took care of the pinging of hitting that timing tab, but a deep knocking remained, faint at idle until hot, and noticeable with the vehicle at 0mph and the truck in gear (auto th350 trans). I bent the tab up a bit hoping for a quick fix, until i got the time and $ to replace the original harmonic balancer. Last week or so I noticed a knocking of a two tones (hi,lo) near the motor and noticed the harmonic balancer was hitting the timing tab, and had more wobble to it than normal. Ive got a 1972 C-10 with a jasper reman 350SBC (quadrajet, stock manifolds, stock build i believe) installed in 2014 and ive put about 20k miles on it since the install. Hey hoping to get some suggestions as to an economical yet fun solution to my recent dilemma. The developer sold me a copy of the unsupported SDI in version, he was surprised it didn't catch on, they should have promoted it here. SDI out, earlier versions supported SDI in. Features control panel, SDI re-clocking and external Ethernet control. Here's an interesting app that's a well kept secret. Four Great Models Front Back Blackmagic Videohub 10x10 12G Advanced 12G-SDI 10x10 zero latency video router supports any combination of SD, HD and Ultra HD on the router at the same time. New 12x12 cleanswitch, very impressive for live applications. I see these 16x32s haveĪn expansion port, I assume it's the buses in logic form to connect other routers. DV turned the video world on its ear, much like BMD does.Ĭonnecting two routers is a pain without control software that knows about it. HDCAM 3:1:1, 6:1 compression, never liked it.ĭVCPro still lives on in the OP1a.mxf server codec. The demise of tape must have really hurt Sony. He decided to keep it, he already had a 5800. He said he had a buyer for $30K but he could have sold it for $40k+. 18 months ago a mate bought a SR5500 for $10k. They must be 20 years old but still work fine. We still have 4 BVW digital betacams, I can't bring myself to toss a couple. Model name: Blackmagic Broadcast Videohub All communications are simple text based data. Then from anywhere on the network, you can telnet in from a terminal program. So you make a local network with a main computer for controlling it (we use a MacMini Server) and connect it as a server via USB to the Videohub. Keep in mind that these need a computer to translate Ethernet to USB for control. I am nearly positive that the Videohub Master Control panels and the Videohub Smart Control panels are the exact same units used for the new routers, the old routers, and the universal routers. Telnet would be awkward to use for regular control, but is fantastic for special situations and setup. I keep txt files and can reroute everything in an instant. I am able to quickly change all of the names for the Videohub Master Control panels, so they are Alphanumeric and easy to sort through. It helps, and makes it easier to work with. I do recommend getting telnet setup to control it, for the initial setup, anyway. That is also how it is connected up on the rear of the unit. So to change output #17 on the 16x32, you would change "Monitoring Output #1". If you control it with telnet on a computer (or even with the BMD control panels in their default state), they are labelled differently in the software. 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